Porto d’Ischia was once a small town but an earthquake lowered the land and left a circular lake.  In 1854 a small channel was cut through to the sea and the harbour was formed.  Modern ferries steam through this channel pushing water ahead of them which rushes out behind them.  Consequently yachts moored in the wrong part of the harbour roll through 60 degrees.  It is pleasant enough with bars and restaurants on the eastern side with the marina and ferry terminals on the west.

After breakfast Ian and Jesus Tim went supermarket shopping and since thrift is a hobby for both of them they were entrusted with the kitty. While they were away Stewart-a trained electrician-set about mending the electric windlass hand control while I made him tea.  A soldered joint had come adrift inside the deck socket and there was extensive corrosion both in the terminal and the end of the wire.  In the absence of sulphuric acid  Anticalk solution was used to remove the corrosion and then Stewart’s patience and skill resoldered a perfect connection.  Fresh from the supermarket, Ian- a trained toolmaker -set about mending the medical cabinet door by turning it upside down and repositioning the hinges. Make use of all available talent.

Sensing lethargy among the rest of us, Jesus Tim rustled up some lunch, got us washed and dressed then marched us around the harbour to the bus station.  Reading from his Rough Guide to Italy he negotiated 4€ bus passes and we pushed our way on to the No. 1 to Giardini La Mortello.

Sir William Walton and his wife Susana began the garden in 1956 and it was designed by Russell Page.  The garden is set in a quarry on the hill of Zaro with the consequence that the paths are steep and each section of the garden is isolated from the rest but most have spectacular views over the sea and many have secluded seating allowing for “quiet time”.  The scent of jasmine and citrus pervade the air.  Set among the thousand of plants from around the world is “William’s Rock” which contains Sir William’s ashes and has a memorial plaque. On the path down from the rock to the café we passed an old lady using secateurs to take cuttings which she put in the large pouch of her leather apron.  I’ve heard of gardening enthusiasts doing this kind of thing but this was blatant.

The terrace of the tea room looks over the valley at the bottom of the garden, the Earl Grey tea is served in china pots and the carrot cake is home made.  Sitting at an adjoining table was the lady with the secateurs who was none other than Susana, widow of Sir William Walton.  Jesus Tim introduced himself and they talked of many things.  She was pleased that we had enjoyed the garden, particularly pleased that we had visited William’s Rock and wished us well for our trip around Italy. Tim took his leave and I resolved to bring Liz to the garden on our way back up Italy. All these photographs were taken on my second visit with Liz.

The return journey to Porto d’Ischia involved a circumnavigation of the island with a trip inland to a hill top town.  The driver had done the trip countless times and knew every bump and bend in the road and saw no reason to slow down for either.  I didn’t share his belief that three honks on the horn before each bend was sufficient to ward off the impending disaster.

There were lots of holiday makers but it was also used by old ladies for their shopping trips.  They were small, feisty old ladies quite prepared to push their way on to the crowded bus and lecture the driver as to exactly where he was to let them off.

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